Let There Be Light: A Dermatology Provider’s Guide to Phototherapy & Red Light Therapy
As a Dermatology PA with over a decade of experience treating everything from stubborn psoriasis to premature aging, I’ve seen firsthand how powerful light can be—not just in revealing skin concerns under a Wood’s lamp, but in actually treating them. Light-based therapies, particularly phototherapy and red light therapy, have become increasingly popular both in-clinic and for at-home use. But not all light therapies—or devices—are created equally. Let’s break it all down.What Is Phototherapy?
Phototherapy refers to the use of specific wavelengths of ultraviolet (UV) light to treat various skin conditions. The two most common types are broadband UVB and narrowband UVB (NB-UVB) therapy. In clinical dermatology, narrowband UVB—which emits wavelengths around 311–313 nanometers—is the gold standard.
What Conditions Does Narrowband UVB Treat?
NB-UVB is FDA-approved and clinically proven for treating:
• Psoriasis
• Atopic dermatitis (eczema)
• Vitiligo
• Cutaneous T-cell lymphoma
• Lichen planus
• Chronic pruritus (itching)
It works by slowing abnormal skin cell growth and modulating the immune response in the skin. It’s usually administered in a controlled setting 2–3 times per week for several weeks to months.
What Is Red Light Therapy?
Red light therapy (RLT), also known as low-level light therapy (LLLT) or photobiomodulation, uses visible red light (around 620–750 nm) and sometimes near-infrared light (750–1100 nm) to stimulate cellular processes. Unlike UV light, red light does not damage DNA or increase skin cancer risk. Instead, it enhances cellular energy production by stimulating the mitochondria, which supports tissue repair, reduces inflammation, and improves circulation.
Skin, Hair, and Nail Benefits of Red Light Therapy
Red light therapy has exploded in popularity for good reason. Here’s what science (and clinical experience) says it can help with:
Skin
• Anti-aging: RLT can reduce fine lines and wrinkles by boosting collagen production and improving skin elasticity (1).
• Wound healing: Red light accelerates healing in post-surgical wounds, acne lesions, and ulcers (2).
• Rosacea and inflammation: Its anti-inflammatory properties can calm redness and irritation (3).
• Acne: When combined with blue light, RLT can reduce acne lesions by decreasing inflammation and supporting skin healing (4).
Hair
• Hair regrowth: Studies support RLT for androgenetic alopecia (male/female pattern hair loss), improving hair density and thickness by stimulating dormant follicles (5).
Nails
• Though less studied, anecdotal reports suggest RLT may help brittle nails by enhancing circulation and cellular turnover in the nail matrix.
Are All Red Lights Created Equally?
Absolutely not.
Effective red light therapy depends on wavelength, irradiance (light intensity), treatment duration, and device quality. Many inexpensive at-home devices fail to deliver the therapeutic dose needed for real results.
What to Look for in an At-Home Red Light Therapy Device
If you’re considering an at-home unit, here are five non-negotiables:
1. Wavelength Matters
Look for devices that use red (around 630–660 nm) and/or near-infrared (810–850 nm) wavelengths—these are the most studied and effective for skin and hair.
2. Sufficient Irradiance
Effective devices should offer irradiance of at least 30–100 mW/cm² at the skin surface. If the brand doesn’t disclose this data, that’s a red flag.
3. FDA-Cleared or Medical-Grade
Choose products that are FDA-cleared for safety and effectiveness—especially for hair loss or skin rejuvenation claims.
4. Treatment Area Size
A larger panel will treat your skin more evenly and quickly. Avoid tiny devices unless you’re targeting small areas.
5. Customer Transparency
Reputable brands will publish technical specs, clinical study results, and clear instructions for use. Vague marketing without data = buyer beware.
Products That Meet These Specs:
VitaliZEN MAX Red Light Therapy Device
Featuring 132 dual-chip LEDs and 4 COB chips, this device emits red light at 660nm and near-infrared light at 850nm. It offers a high irradiance of 261 mW/cm² at 3 inches, making it effective for deep tissue treatments. The device includes a digital timer and is FDA-cleared.
HigherDose LED Face Mask
This flexible, wearable mask emits red light at 630nm and near-infrared light at 830nm with an irradiance of 50 mW/cm². It's designed for facial skin treatments, promoting collagen production and reducing acne. The device is FDA-cleared and has received positive reviews for its effectiveness.
CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Mask
Emitting red light at 633nm, near-infrared light at 830nm, and deep near-infrared light at 1072nm, this mask is designed to improve skin texture and reduce wrinkles. Clinical studies have shown a 35% reduction in wrinkles over four weeks. The device includes a chin strap to address low-face and jawline concerns, and it is FDA-cleared and recommended by dermatologists.
Bestqool Red Light Therapy Device
This panel emits red light at 660nm and near-infrared light at 850nm, suitable for full-body treatments. It's designed for skin health, pain relief, and muscle recovery. The device is FDA-cleared and features a high-power output.
Bottom Line:
Phototherapy and red light therapy are safe, non-invasive, and effective treatments when used appropriately. While in-office phototherapy is typically reserved for chronic skin conditions, red light therapy offers versatile benefits—from wrinkle reduction to hair growth—and can be used at home with the right device.
If you’re serious about integrating light therapy into your wellness routine, speak with a board-certified dermatologist or dermatology PA first. We’ll help guide you toward treatments—and tools—that are truly illuminating.
Sources:
1. Avci et al., Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 2013
2. Barolet et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2009
3. Lee et al., Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, 2007
4. Gold et al., Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2009
5. Gupta & Foley, Dermatologic Surgery, 2017
